Sunday, February 24, 2008

St. Francis Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Winery: St. Francis

Location: Sonoma County, California

Had this last night with chicken florentine, asparagus, and a couple cherry tomatoes. I immediately noticed a butteriness to the wine, apparently the result of large amounts of diacetyl. I would recommend letting the bottle breathe some before drinking.

Alamos Malbec 2006

Alamos Malbec 2006
Malbec Argentina, South America

Winemaking notes: The 2006 Alamos Malbec presents a deep, opaque violet color with purple hues. The nose is intense and complex, with ripe black fruits, sweet spice and a touch of violets. The mouthfeel is sweet and supple, with black cherry and cassis flavors mingled with spicy black pepper and a touch of leather. The finish is long and persistent with soft, sweet tannins.

My thoughts: cheap and fits my palate, better if given some time to breathe, the black cherry and tannins stood out the most.

Monday, February 18, 2008

Truffles in North Carolina???

Apparently this is old news, but this is the first that I had heard about it...black truffles can be grown in North America and, more specifically, North Carolina. It's a pretty good cash crop but takes 5-7 years to fruition. It's interesting but surely not an easy task as noted in this article. The leader of the pack is Mr. Franklin Garland, whose website boasts a wealth of information.

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Wine Library TV Bashing...

You can read Craig Camp's "The 60 Second Taster" in its entirety here with portions stated below:

"I finally saw my first episode of Wine Library TV. There before my eyes was that retailer of my past, only with a Riedel glass instead of a plastic cup. That, at least, is a little progress. I had tried to avoid watching his programs after first seeing him in a horribly embarrassing segment on the Conan O’ Brien Show, but I kept getting so many hits to this site from a link that someone had placed to one of my posts that I had to check it out. That was a mistake as I should have followed my instincts and stayed away, but like someone passing a car wreck I could not avert my eyes.

Under cover of supposedly witty banter, with a minute or less thought tells you all you need to know about the wine he is tasting. Not only that, but he actually gives you points so you can have an exact reference to how a wine tastes and can rank it among other wine choices. Well actually he only gives you an accurate reference point if you only drink a wine for sixty seconds before moving on to the next bottle. Once again someone is gaining influence by rating wines in a situation that has nothing to do with how we actually drink them. Many writers over the years have complained that Robert Parker’s method of tasting sometimes hundreds of wines in very short periods, often giving wines scores after only seconds, did not allow for wines of elegance to show their true character, while big alcoholic wines that were not very good to drink full glasses of stood out under the onslaught he put his palate through...Let me try to elaborate on what I object to here. What bothers me is the following style of tasting:

swirl, swirl; sniff, sniff; sip, sip; give points next wine please

Every time I see this happen I cringe...as long as Gary Vaynerchuk awards points in such a rapid fire way and then presents those points as a quantifiable ranking that consumers should base their buying decisions on I find the show less than entertaining.

Big Pinot...

I was perusing Craig Camp's blog, winecamp, when I came about the following lashing on 'big pinot' that I wanted to share:

"I never got the big pinot thing. Happily, it seems now that the pendulum is swinging the other way, best of all, it's back to my side. My biggest complaint about the point-driven fad for big pinot is that they really had no reason to exist. If you wanted a big wine there were varieties out there that could handle the job with more elan. If you want big drink syrah or zinfandel, which excel at the task, not super-charged pinot that is barely holding itself together as a wine.

Oddly enough I seem to have a new teammate in this struggle against goopy pinot noir. The odd part is that it is winemaker Brian Loring, the "poster boy" of big pinot. On a recent thread on Wine Therapy, winemaker Loring makes the following statement, "While I was the poster boy for "the darker side" of Pinot Noir... I'm happier now making wines that are in the mid 14s (alcohol) and have enough acid to live at least 3 or 4 years in bottle. I'm done with the "dry port" style... that just turns to prune juice after 3 years."

I applaud Brian for his guts and honesty. This is an almost unbelievable statement for a winemaker to make these days and only someone of great passion would take the risk. I can't wait to try some of his new wines.

While this is a testament to Brian's integrity and devotion to winemaking, it is a strong indictment against those wine writers who gave 90+ score-after-score to wines, which in Brian's own words, "that just turns to prune juice after 3 years". I can't fault Brian for this as he was doing what he truly believed in and when he found it was the wrong path changed directions. As in all art, not everything works. However, the so called expert critics should have known better. Once again reviews provided by "sixty second tasters" fail the consumer.

With all varieties there will be excellent wines made that range from robust to delicate. However, wines that are over-the-top should be easily recognized by any critic worth following."

Paris Wine Bars...

Paris wine bars­ include:

Caves Legrand: legendary and venerable

Le Verre à Pied: neighborhoody

Collector's Note: Size does matter...

Go with a magnum format, if possible, when picking a collector's bottle. As noted by Steve Bachmann of Vinfolio, "the cachet of a large format bottle owes to many things. First and foremost the science behind the aesthetic - the larger format bottle restrains the evolutionary process of the wine's aging. This extends the longevity of the wine and also, some argue, to an even higher level of quality than smaller formats. "

The ABC's of Wine...

Wine Spectator has some guide Beginner's Guides for those interested in wine. One such article is 'The ABC's of Wine', which goes into varietal characteristics, by James Laube, with James Molesworth, which can be found here.

"In order to appreciate wine, it's essential to understand the characteristics different grapes offer and how those characteristics should be expressed in wines. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel are all red grapes, but as wines their personalities are quite different. Even when grown in different appellations and vinified using different techniques, a varietal wine always displays certain qualities, which are inherent in the grape's personality. Muscat should always be spicy, Sauvignon Blanc a touch herbal. Zinfandel is zesty, with pepper and wild berry flavors. Cabernet Sauvignon is marked by plum, currant and black cherry flavors and firm tannins...

In Europe, the finest wines are known primarily by geographic appellation (although this is changing; witness the occasional French and Italian varietals). Elsewhere, however—as in America, Australia, South Africa and New Zealand—most wines are labeled by their varietal names; even, sometimes, by grape combinations (Cabernet-Shiraz, for example). To a large extent, this is because in the United States, the process of sorting out which grapes grow best in which appellations is ongoing and Americans were first introduced to fine wine by varietal name. In Europe, with a longer history for matching grape types to soil and climate, the research is more conclusive: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, for instance, are the major grapes of Burgundy. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot are the red grapes of Bordeaux. Syrah dominates northern Rhône reds. Barolo and Barbaresco are both made of Nebbiolo, but the different appellations produce different styles of wine. In Tuscany, Sangiovese provides the backbone of Chianti. A different clone of Sangiovese is used for Brunello di Montalcino.

As a result, Europeans are used to wines with regional names.

In time, the New World's appellation system may well evolve into one more like Europe's. Already California appellations such as Carneros and Santa Maria Valley are becoming synonymous with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Oregon's Willamette Valley is known for Pinot Noir and Australia's Hunter Valley for Shiraz; back in California, Rutherford, Oakville and the Stags Leap District are all associated with Cabernet-based red table wines. Wineries with vested financial interests in these appellations and the marketing clout to emphasize the distinctive features of the wines grown in these areas will determine how the appellation system evolves and whether specific wine styles emerge. The appellations themselves will also determine which grapes excel and deserve special recognition."

In summary:
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel = all red grapes
Sauvignon Blanc = a touch herbal
Zinfandel = zesty, with pepper and wild berry flavors
Cabernet Sauvignon = marked by plum, currant and black cherry flavors and firm tannins

Burgundy = major grapes are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
Bordeaux = red grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot
Northern Rhône = Syrah dominates
Barolo and Barbaresco = both made of Nebbiolo, but the different appellations produce different styles of wine.
Tuscany = Sangiovese provides the backbone of Chianti. A different clone of Sangiovese is used for Brunello di Montalcino.

Wine Spectator on Pinot Noir...

In a post from a while ago, but still great, Tom Wark at Fermentation compiled data from Wine Spectator Magazine, looking at reviews in specific regions for the vintages 2003-2005. The majority of reviews are of the 2004 vintage.

Burgundy:
488 Reviews
90+ = 46%
-80 = 3%

New Zealand
124 Reviews
90+ = 11%
-80 = 10%

Australia
50 Reviews
90+ = 4%
-80 = 2%

Oregon
280 Reviews
90+ = 43%
-80 = 3%

California
807 Reviews
90+ = 33%
-80 = 8%

Carneros
50 Reviews
90+ = 12%
-80 = 15%

Mendocino (Anderson Valley)
27 Reviews
90+ = 37%
-80 = 4%

California Central Coast (Monterey/Santa Lucia Highlands)
83 Reviews
90+ = 33%
-80 = 12%

California South Coast (Santa Rita, Santa Maria, Arroyo Grande, Santa Barbara)
125 Reviews
90+ = 26%
-80 = 8%

Russian River Valley
101 Reviews
90+ = 36%
-80 = 10%

WORLDWIDE
1508 Reviews
90+ = 33%
-80 = 6%

Top 5 regions in order: Burgundy, Oregon, Mendocina (Anderson Valley), Russian Valley, and California Central Coast (Monterey/Santa Lucia Highlands). The bottom included New Zealand, Australia, and Carneros.

2005 CA Pinot's...

Tom Wark, of Fermentation fame, has a post out about Wine Spectator's rankings of the 2005 CA Pinot vintage that has hit the market and is talked to be an excellent year.

2005 CA Pinots Reviewed by the Wine Spectator:
(Appellation, % w/ 90 Points or more, % w/80 pts or less, total wines reviewed)

California Pinots----26% w/90pts----(7% less than 80pts)-----417 wines reviewed
Russian River--------27% w/ 90pts----(6% less than 80pts)------179 wines reviewed
Carneros---------------14% w/ 90pts------(6% less than 80pts)......35 wines reviewed
Sonoma Coast-------30% w/90pts------(3% less than 80pts)------67 wines reviewed
Santa Lucia-----------41% w/90 pts-----(0% less than 80pts)-------34 wines reviewed
Santa Rita-------------30% w/90 pts-----(4% less than 80pts)-------55 wines reviewed
Anderson Vly--------42% w/90 pts-----(4% less than 80pts)-----24 wines reviewed

In short, note Santa Lucia and Anderson Valley. More can be read at Fermentation.

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Columbia Valley 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

Harvest: Perfectly ripe and healthy fruit was the result of a harvest with a growing season with plenty of warm, sunny, rain-free days.

Tasting Notes: Straightforward aromatics of Cabernet; briary fruit (blackberries, raspberries) with a touch of oak and cedar. Medium weight palate with good fruit depth and notes of sage. The finish is long with hints of black cherries.

Bottling
Total Acidity ..........................5.6g/L
pH..................................................3.55
Alcohol......................................13.5%
Release Date.............November 2006
Cases Produced.......................12,000

Columbia Winery was founded in 1962 by ten friends, six of whom were University of Washington professors. Originally known as Associated Vintners, the group was united in the belief that classic European vinifera vines could survive the harsh Washington winters and that fine wine could be made in Washington State.

David Lake, Master of Wine, joined Columbia Winery in 1979 as winemaker and continued the pioneering spirit of Columbia Winery’s founders for 27 years. David is most renowned for his experimentation with new varietals and for producing the first series of vineyard-designate wines in Washington State. He was the first winemaker to produce several varietals in Washington, including Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Gris. Today, we continue to experiment with new varietals and in new directions.

R Winery Green Lion 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon

Wine: 2005 R Winery Green Lion Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon
Purchased at: Winestore - Charlotte, NC
Cost: $19.99

Tasting:
Mike Supple, JJ Buckley
December 2007
Intense black core in the glass with a bright purple and crimson rim. Cool dark fruit aromas of blueberry, blackberry and cassis are backed by a hint of blue slate and a lighter anise spice. Subtle entry onto the palate. Dark, rich and full bodied. The tannins are ripe and present, yet very round and approachable. Cinnamon and bakers chocolate support the rich dark fruits. Great balance and long, lingering finish. A screamingly great Napa Cab that truly over delivers for the price.

Fruit source: Pritchard Hill (of Bryant Family fame) and Diamond Mountain (Lokoya wines), high atop the Napa Valley.

Art: this wine has a really cool, interesting label designed by Alan Aldridge, who's famous artwork includes album covers for Rolling Stones, the Beatles, Elton John, Jimmy Hendrix, and Pink Floyd.

About the Winery: R Winery - Winemaker Chris Ringland and importer Dan Philips do Napa. Responsible for four perfect, 100 point scores from Robert Parker, Chris is one of the most well-respected winemakers from around the world. Dan, who's palate Robert Parker refers to as 'brilliant', has been creating and importing top Australian wines for over a decade.

Together, they have formed R Wines and have begun producing wines in California and around the world. Check your Wine Advocate (Issue 173, 10-31-2007, page 52-53): R Wines has 32 wines 90 points or higher, including 7 wines 96 points or higher. Other wines include 'Evil' and 'Bitch'.

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